Tuesday Take: Find Wines Made By Matt Dees

A self proclaimed soil nerd with a deft touch in the vineyard and cellar makes some of the best wines on the planet.

Matt Dees, the winemaker behind a stunning collection of wines from Santa Barbara - Jonata, The Hilt, The Pairing, Kimsey and Mail Road - ties together acidity and flavor like no one else. Some labels and brands are easier to find than others, The Pairing and The Hilt seem to be growing in distribution, while it feels like Kimsey and Mail Road sneak out of California via amounts that would fill an eye dropper.

Either way, seek out the aforementioned brands to witness a winemaker in full control of his craft. Opened on Super Bowl Sunday, the Mail Road Mount Carmel Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2017 ($100) had dark fruit, blood orange, dried rose petals, violets and tart blackberries with Dees’ trademark acidity that offered a persistent intensity. Combined with the tannins, the acidity suggested a long life for a great Sta. Rita Hills wine.

Winemaker Matt Dees holds a rock in The Hilt’s Radian Vineyard on a windy and crisp Spring day in 2022.