Identification of the exact moment when a brand becomes classic is impossible to identify.

For Joe Nielsen, the GM and Director of Winemaking at Ram’s Gate, it’s been a five-vintage tenure at the Sonoma winery. Compared to Old World wineries with ownership that spans generations, he’s been running the show for what amounts to the blink of an eye.

Yet, he’s intrigued by what the future holds and how he can position Ram’s Gate. In the vineyard, he’s overseen the transition to organic farming and in the cellar he doesn’t want to take any shortcuts.

“We’re looking to build a brand,” Nielsen said. “As wine quality goes up it’s a good chance for us to keep spreading the gospel about our wine. We want to do it the right way and aren’t trying to get there fast. I want the brand to outlast me or the team. I’m always inspired by old world brands. When did the producers in Pauillac become classic? It was decades and centuries in the making before they were accepted as great.”

Joe Nielsen tasting at Ram’s Gate Winery in Sonoma, California.

There’s a code by which Nielsen has operated in the Ram’s Gate vineyard and cellar.

“I don’t want to compromise or be part of a fad,” Nielsen said. “I want to stick with our style and vision.”

Because trends come and go, Nielsen reached a point where he embraced the nuance in Ram’s Gate wines. Veering wildly in one direction isn’t his style. So, he isn’t on a trophy hunt to achieve the most points possible from wine critics. Nor is he bound by a recipe that must be repeated.

Wines made by a template wouldn’t match the desire he has to build the Ram’s Gate brand. Sonoma’s dynamic terroir is what he wants expressed.

“I want to make something unique and special,” Nielsen said. “I don’t have a desire to copy someone else. I’m not wanting to be a cover band. I enjoy authenticity and want to find our own voice through these vineyards. We’ve got a house style and that’s my palate. Our wines have lift and verve and our goal is to let the vineyard, variety or Sonoma speak.”

A sun-drenched Ram’s Gate in Sonoma. (Photo: Rocco Ceselin)

The portfolio of Ram’s Gate wines sampled reflect Nielsen’s desire to seek balance.

He had the goal to follow flavor and acid in the cellar because they lead to “finesse and elegance” in the wine. Sugar and alcohol are merely along for the ride.

“I like agility in my wine, whenever we are in blending sessions and ask is it too rich or too acidic, that’s the perfect spot to be,” Nielsen said. “I like to wobble between.”

Which showed on the Ram’s Gate Carneros Pinot Blanc 2020 ($38) which he called “an exercise in delicacy.” It had flavors of green apple, pear and the crumbly first bite of an almond cookie. Nielsen’s favorite variety is suvignon blanc.

It showed with the Ram’s Gate Carneros Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($38), where he paid homage to Bordeaux white wines. 10% is aged in new French oak, 20% in stainless steel and 70% in neutral French oak. The wine is aged on its lees and had tropical, citrus and gun flint aromas and flavors.

As one of 12 wineries that work with Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay ($70), Nielsen’s goal was originality.

“What can I do that hasn’t already been said?” Nielsen said. “Authenticity is important, this is our interpretation of really well farmed grapes. We use two clones planted in the ‘90s. One clone from the site undergoes malolactic fermentation the other doesn’t. The result is a wine with dried apricot and pear flavors where the aromatic lift runs the show.”

With tons of dark fruit flavors, the Ram’s Gate Carneros Pinot Noir 2019 ($85) is made from grapes have skins thicker than normal for pinot. It’s also a clever foil for the Ram’s Gate Bush-Crispo Pinot Noir 2019 ($75) with it’s plum sauce, baking spice and Chinese Five Spice flavors.

“The fruit from the 115 clone is like these little hand grenades,” Nielsen sad. “It has explosive structure and a massive mouthfeel. It’s fully de-stemmed because it has so much power.”

Ram's Gate: Being Agile in Sonoma